Grouting tile is a crucial step in a floor tile installation, and when done right the tile grout holds the floor tiles in place and seals the gaps and creates a watertight barrier between the floor tiles.
Some tiles are so porous that it's crucial that you implement a coat of protective tile sealer before you can even grout them. And if you don't the grout will stain them. These delicate tiles include slate tile, limestone tile, unglazed ceramic tile, and quarry tile.
Once you've completed your floor tile installation and have allowed
your Thinset Mortar to cure for 12 hours, In most cases its safe to
install your tile grout.
But it dries different if your weather is humid or if you've installed dense floor tiles, such as porcelain floor tiles or slate floor tile.
So you'll need to check a little closer to make sure the exposed Thinset is completely dry. The color of the Thinset Mortar becomes lighter as it dries.
* Your Thinset Mortar should be about 1/4 inch below the surface of
the floor tiles. If you find spots that are higher than this, dig them
out with a flat-head screwdriver. And then Wipe away any dried Thinset
from the surface of your new floor tile installation.
* If the spaces between your floor tiles are 1/4 inch or smaller, use an un-sanded tile grout. If they're larger than this, use a sanded tile grout. The sanded tile grout contains a portion of construction grade sand to strengthen the grout.
* If you're using a very porous tile such as an unglazed ceramic tile, slate tile or limestone tile for your new floor tile installation, You should seal them before grouting. These tiles are so porous that even the tile grout will stain them
Before you begin grouting tile, use needle nose pliers to remove your
spacers from between your floor tiles while being careful not to nick
the tiles as you go.
When mixing tile grout, you'll need to mix many small batches. You will need to use up each batch of the grout before it dries out, then mix a new batch for grouting floor tiles for the following section.
Fill a clean 5 gallon bucket with about 2 inches of room temperature water. Then gradually add your tile grout powder to the water, while mixing with your trowel as you go.
You want your tile grout mixture about the thickness of toothpaste, and free of lumps. Wait about ten minutes and then mix your tile grout again. Add a little more water if necessary.
Step 2 To Grouting tile - Push tile Grout into the Grout Lines
To begin grouting floor tile use your rubber grout float, to scoop some of your grout onto your tile surface. Hold your grout float nearly flat and push the tile grout into your grout lines.
Use sweeping back and forth strokes, being sure to push your grout float in two or more directions. Stop after grouting floor tiles in an area of about ten by 10 feet. This way you'll have enough time to wipe away excess tile grout before it sets.
Step 3 To Grouting Tile- Wipe Away Excess Grout
For wiping away excess tile grout, tip your grout float up and clear away most of the tile grout from the surface of your tiles.
Move your grout float diagonally across your tiles, so the edge of the grout float does not dig into any of your tile grout lines. You'll want to remove at least three-quarters of the tile grout from the surface of your floor tiles.
Step 4 To Grouting Tile- Clean Grout From the Tile Surface
After grouting floor tiles, the surface of the tiles will haze from the drying tile grout. The temperature of the room and how you mixed the grout mix will tell when this will happen. The tile grout can haze anywhere from twenty minutes to an hour.
Be aware of when the tile grout dries because the longer you wait after the grout has dried, the harder it will be to remove.
When you see the haze, dip a large sponge in clean water. Squeeze some of the water out of the sponge so that it is wet but not dripping.
Gently wipe the tile grout from the surface of your tiles. Do not dig into the tile grout lines, and be sure to rinse the sponge frequently with clean water.
If you do find hardened grout on your tiles a day or so after tile grouting, Slightly dampen a pot scrubbing pad and carefully remove it.
Step 5 To Grouting Tile- Joint Grout Lines
Jointing is an important step for a new floor tile installation. Your tile grout should be just slightly below the tile surface of your floor tiles.
If the tile grout is deeper than this, it will be hard to keep clean.
Jointing helps in making your grout lines even and consistent while creating a much more professional look
Wet your sponge with clean water, and wring it out, so it is just damp. Ball up a corner of the sponge, and run it along each tile grout line, working first in one direction and then in the other.
Have a bucket of
water close by so you can continuously rinse the sponge, and when the
water gets murky change it.
Be careful not to kneel or step on the tile grout lines. And Once again allow the tile grout to dry. Remember the tell all for drying is It will be lighter in color.
Once the tile grout is dry buff the surface of your tiles until they shine. If you find any holes in your tile grout lines, fill them with fresh tile grout and smooth the area out with a sponge.
Caulking your joints
Ceramic tiles and stone tiles will expand with the changes of temperature. This can cause these tiles to crack if you don't allow for a little movement, where tiles located on different surfaces meet, such as between a countertop and backsplash, a floor and wall, or even two walls that meet.
Do not grout these areas. Instead use a silicone caulk that matches your tile grout. It's up to you if you want to do this before or after grouting floor tiles, just be sure that whichever you choose to do first has fully cured before applying the other.
if not you're ready for
sealing your tile grout alone, which always needs to be done.