The method for how to grout stone or ceramic wall tile is a crucial step in the tiling process. It can make or break the appearance of your wall tile installation.
Grouting tile not only enhances the look of a wall tile installation but more important it holds the tiles in place and seals the gaps between them, and creates a secure watertight surface.
* Grout your wall tiles with a latex reinforced grout.
*if the spaces between your tiles are 1/8 inch or wider use a sanded tile grout and unsanded grout for anything wider.
* Your tile adhesive in the spaces between your tiles should be no more than 1/4 inch below the surface of the tiles. If you find them higher dig them out with a flathead screwdriver or a utility knife. If you don't, the tile adhesive may show through the grout.
* If you are using a very porous tile, such as an unglazed ceramic tile, slate tile or limestone tiles, you will need to seal these tiles before grouting them. If you don't seal them first, you risk the chance of staining them with the tile grout.
* For any area where tile joints meet such as in a corner where two tiled walls meet, or floor tile intersects with wall tile, It's best to fill these joints with a silicone caulk rather than tile grout. So while grouting tile leave these areas open
* you'll need to mix many small batches of tile grout rather than one big one. So you can use up each batch before it dries out.
* Your tile grout should be just slightly below your tile surface. If the tile grouts deeper, it will be hard to clean.
Start with a clean five-gallon bucket, with about two inches of room temperature water. Gradually add your grout powder mixing with a trowel as you go. You'll want the mixture to be about the consistency of toothpaste and free of lumps.
Wait about 10 minutes and mix again, Add a little more water if necessary to keep the texture right.
Use a rubber grout float to scoop some tile grout onto the surface of the wall tiles. Hold your grout float nearly flat and push the tile grout into the grout lines. Use sweeping back and forth strokes and push in two or more directions.
Try not to grout any more than a ten by ten area ensuring you'll have enough time to wipe away the excess grout before it starts to harden.
Tilt your float upward. Use it as if you were using a squeegee, and clear away most of the tile grout from your tile surface. Move the float diagonally across the wall tiles so the edge of the float doesn't dig into the grout lines. It's no big deal if you can't remove all of the tile grout. Just aim for removing about three-thirds of it
When your wall tile surface begins to haze over with drying tile grout, It's time to wipe off the rest of the excess grout.
The hazing can take place anywhere from twenty minutes to an hour. Depending on the temperature of the room or how dry the tile grout was mixed. But pay attention to when the hazing starts because the longer you wait afterwards the harder it is to get the grout off.
Dip a sponge in clean water and squeeze the water out so that the sponge is wet but not dripping. Gently run the sponge across the wall tile surface while wiping up the tile grout. Be careful not to dig into the grout lines, And rinse your sponge frequently as needed.
Now that the grout is firmly embedded it's time to remove the rest of the excess tile grout and make your tile grout lines consistent. In a professional Tiler's world, this is called Jointing the grout. But seriously Jointing is a big part of the tiling process. When you don't wipe down your tile surface, correctly it looks unprofessional.
So rinse a sponge in clean water and rinse it out till it's damp. Run it along each grout line working in both directions. Have a bucket of water available so you can continuously rinse the sponge as needed. And change the water when it gets murky.
Allow your tile grout to dry. The telltale sign will be the lighter color.
Use a clean, dry lint-free rag to buff the surface of your wall tiles until they shine.
Should you find any holes in your tile grout lines, fill them with fresh tile grout and smooth them out with a sponge.
Stone and ceramic tiles tend to expand and contract with the changes in temperatures. Although these movements are very slight, they can cause your tiles to crack. Caulking the joints between tiles gives them the added flexibility they need. So caulk these areas rather than grout them.