Installing baseboards and shoe molding adds a classy, attractive accent to wood flooring and floor tile designs. But not only that, but they also hide any structural defects and any of the rough edges that come from rough cuts to a floor tile installation.
The Baseboard molding does an excellent job of hiding the gap between the wall and the wood flooring or floor tile designs, While the shoe moldings cover the gaps between the baseboard molding and the flooring. Together they create a beautifully clean, classy appeal!
Baseboard molding comes in a broad range of styles and contours that can be painted, stained or varnished. So besides selecting a style that enhances your wood flooring or floor tile designs, You'll also want to choose the right material that matches your intentions.
If you intend to paint your baseboard molding, select a suitable material like pine or medium density fiberboard. For staining and varnishing, you'll need a higher quality wood like poplar or another quality hardwood.
Installing baseboards that are un-coped is a lot simpler than installing coped baseboards, You just purchase the already made corner pieces in the design of your choice, fasten them to your corners and then butt in the baseboards. Installing baseboards that you will cope involves back cutting the joints to achieve a clean, seamless fit.
* Baseboards work especially well for finishing off hardwood flooring, Parquet floor tile, wood Laminate flooring, and bamboo flooring. But it's also a beautiful addition to any of the many other floor tile installations. They not only make just about any style of floor tile designs look more attractive, but also do the job of hiding the rough edges and filling the gaps between the walls and the entire perimeter of the floor tile installation.
*After completing your floor tile installation give your grout and sealer enough time to cure before installing baseboards.
*Sometimes it's tricky finding a stud to nail the baseboard to, especially when it comes to the older homes where the door trims often exceeds beyond the studs. If you should run into this challenge, Add a bead of construction adhesive on the back of the baseboard to adhere it to the wall
* To get a more snug fitting to your coped joint, cut your baseboard sections about 1/16 of an inch longer than measured. Once nailed in the slightly longer coped edges will fit more snug into the neighboring board.
* For long walls where you need to use more than one piece of baseboard molding and shoe molding, create angled scarf joints to join the sections while discretely hiding the connections.
You'll first want to measure from the end of the door trim to the nearest corner, And cut a piece of baseboard to fit, Cut butt edges to both ends of this board, so it fits snug to the door trim and the nearest corner.
Then Pre-drill holes into the baseboard to fit 8d finishing nails. Place the board flush up against the bottom of the wall and drive the 8d nails into the studs and also into the bottom plate of the wall.
Measure the bottom of the adjacent wall starting from the corner. Then use a miter saw to miter the end of the board that meets in the corner of the one you just installed. Miter it as if you were cutting it for an inside corner.
Set this piece of baseboard on a work surface and outline the edge of the mitered profile with a pencil.
Then clamp or steady this board to your work surface and use a coping saw with a fine toothed blade angled to the right of the mitered end and carefully cut the board along the penciled outline. You're doing this to create a thin edge to the front of the baseboard that not only follows it's contour, but also will fit almost seamlessly into the connecting corner piece.
Test fit your coped piece up against the baseboard you've already
installed and continue sanding and filing it until it mates with the
installed baseboard. You can use 80 grit sandpaper for sanding to make
the contour fit and a fine round wood file to file in the tightly curved
sections. No need to worry about small gaps as you will be filling them
later with caulk, but if your mistakes are too large, better to start
over and miter the board again.
Cut your shoe molding for each section of the walls, While duplicating the butt and coped joints wherever they fall on the baseboards.
Predrill your pieces of shoe molding. And nail them into the baseboard
at an angle, While making sure it's flush with the surface of the floor.
Finish up on installing your coped baseboards by using wood filler to fill any holes and gaps in the baseboards. Allow the wood filler to dry and then lightly sand off any excess. Apply caulk along the top of the baseboards to fill the joint between the baseboard and the wall
You install no-cope baseboards in the same way as installing the coped ones, except you will skip mitering and cutting the edges of the baseboards to fit. Instead, you use baseboard corner pieces in the style of your liking. You then install them to the inside and outside corners of your walls and butt in the baseboards.
First cut and install your inside and outside corner pieces. You'll want to choose a corner design that's taller than the baseboard at whatever height you desire.
Then place your baseboard molding into position so you can scribe a line to both ends of the board for it to fit snug in between the corner pieces. These lines should conform to any out of plumb conditions in the wall. Then cut the first piece.
Predrill your holes into the baseboards to match 8d finishing nails. Then place your baseboard into position and drive the 8d finishing nails into their pre-drilled holes.
Use this same method for installing all of the baseboards until completion. Be sure to drive the nails below the surface, and fill and sand them smooth. Then you can finish up by applying your paint or varnish.