Installing Drywall is the way to go once you've determined that patching drywall or damaged plaster just won't do.
Before beginning a new wall tile installation, the surface of the wall should be straight, flat and plumb.
So if patching drywall and damaged plaster won't do, it's best to go ahead and tear down the old wall and install new drywall. It's not as hard as it may sound.
You'll just need a little patience, the right tile tools, and a helper. And you'll see that installing drywall is not difficult at all.
And once completed you'll be proud of the new smooth surface you've created for your new wall tile installation.
*Drywall sheets come in 4x8 feet sheets. Install your drywall boards with the 8-foot edge riding against the ceiling and the 4-foot against the wall. Some folks hang drywall vertically, But when you hang it horizontally, you wind up with fewer joints to tape.
* Don't Install drywall to the wet areas of the bathroom, Instead install cement backerboard to the walls of a tub surround or shower. Cement backerboard creates a watertight barrier to protect the structure of these walls from water damage.
* When you install drywall, the gray paper faces away from the studs.
*While installing drywall wear a dust mask and a pair of safety glasses to avoid getting dust particles in your lungs and eyes. And hang plastic sheeting over each doorway in the room to keep dust particles from spreading throughout the house.
*When it comes to setting drywall screws if you don't turn them in deep enough, they stick out from the surface and interfere with your wall tile installation because the surface is not flat. If too deep the head of the screw will punch a hole in the drywall paper, which it needs to fasten the drywall in place.
You want to turn the screw until it's just below the surface, without tearing the paper.
Once you've stripped your walls down to the studs and finished with the clean up, You're now ready for installing drywall.
Step 1- Test Fit Your First Drywall Sheet
Drywall comes in 8 by four sheets. Align the 8-foot edge, so it rides against the ceiling while the 4-foot edge rides against the adjacent wall.
Make sure the gray side of the drywall is facing away from the wall studs. And if you're installing drywall to a bathroom don't forget to skip installing it to the wet areas where you'll be using Cement Backerboard sheets instead.
You want the end of the board to fall in the center of a stud so it can be securely screwed in. If yours does, great! You're ready to secure it to the beam, If it doesn't, You'll need to cut the drywall sheet, so it does.
So have your partner to hold the board in place, while you mark it so it will fall in the center of the stud that's closest to the end of the board.
If you were just to measure it with a tape measure, you might wind up with less accurate results.
To cut your boards, You'll first need to lean your drywall board against a wall, or if you have the room lay it across a large enough wood board that will allow you to make the cut, or you can lay it across about four 2 by 4 boards.
Align a straightedge against your mark and use a sharp utility knife to score the front of the board.
Snap the board along the score line. You do this by bending the board away from the cut side, And to complete the cut, Slice the paper backing on the other side.
Place the board back in place, and be sure that the end of it is in the center of the stud.
While your partner holds the board in place, fasten it down with drywall screws. Insert a screw every six inches or so along every stud.
Use the same process by butting another drywall sheet against the end of the first. Continue moving across the wall until you've completed the top half of the wall.
Then run another row of drywall sheets under the first, while keeping the second row tight against the boards above. Offset the joints of the second row of boards by those of the first row by at least one stud.
Shim the bottom row of boards up off the floor by 1/4 inch to make fitting them easier. It also prevents future moisture from wicking up into the material. Always install the bottom boards where the edge you cut is riding along the floor, while the factory finished edge is against the boards above.
Usually installing drywall includes taping the joints and covering the tape with joint compound. You would do this if you were intending on painting the wall.
But the standard joint compound is water soluble so the moisture that's in Thinset and Tile Mastic Tile adhesives can slightly dissolve the joint compound. And this can leave you with bonding problems!
So a lot of tile setters simply leave the joints un-taped and fill them with tile adhesive as they lay their tiles.
If there are gaps or uneven spots between your drywall sheets, you can fill them with the tile adhesive you'll be using to install your new wall tile installation,
Apply Fiberglass Tape
Then cover the adhesive filled seams with fiberglass mesh tape and then use a flat trowel to apply another thin coat of the tile adhesive. And smooth the material flush with the surface.
To notch around electrical receptacles and windows, place the drywall board in the same way that it will be installed, and put it as close to the receptacle as possible,
Using a tape measure and pencil mark the cuts that you will need, then use a drywall saw to make your initial cuts, leave the last line to be scored, and score it with a utility knife, snap it first and then cut the paper.
Put this board back into position and check your cuts. It's best to mark the board while it's in place for any needed adjustments, such as a wider hole, and If the hole is too wide in one area, you can fill it later.
After Clean up be sure to set a little time aside to look at the beautiful new wall you've created for your new wall tile installation.