Installing Laminate tile flooring is different than other floor tile installations. For most floor tile installations you begin laying your floor tiles in the middle of the floor. But for Laminate floor tiles you start the floor tile installation at one wall and work your way to the other.
And the tile underlayment for Laminate Floor Tiles is foam over a Plywood or Concrete subfloor. The foam tile underlayment prevents moisture from rising into the floor. It is of particular importance when tiling over concrete or below grade materials.
The foam tile underlayment also cushions the floor underneath and reduces sounds.
Select the best foam tile underlayment that your supplier recommends for the type of laminate tile flooring you are using.
*Laminate Tongue and Groove Interlocking Tiles To Cover the Entire Floor
*Laminate Foam Underlayment To Cover The Entire Floor
*Tape For holding Laminate Foam To The Subfloor
*Pencil With Compass
*Snap Chalk Tool * Pull Bar
*Circular Saw - *Jigsaw
*1/4 Inch Plastic Spacers or you can cut your own 1/4 inch thick spacers from scrap wood,
To begin your laminate floor tile installation roll out your foam tile underlayment, And overlap and tape the rows as recommended by the manufacturer.
Begin laying your laminate tile flooring along the most highly visible wall of your room. Use the width of one of your Laminate tiles and add 1/4 inch to measure
and mark off the wall at each end. Don't include the tongue in the
Then Snap chalk a line between the marks. You'll need to use either a table saw or circular saw to cut the tongues off each of your laminate floor tiles that you will be laying up against the wall for your first row of tiles.
Lay your first laminate tile at one end of the wall, with the cutoff tongue side against the wall.Insert 2 1/4 inch spacers between your laminate tile and the main wall, and one between the tile and the side wall.
You want the outer side of the tile to ride along the chalk line, If it doesn't you may have a bump or other intrusion on the wall that's preventing it, So you may have to trim the edge of the tile that sits near the wall surface.
Complete your first row of tiles by laying a second tile up against the first while tightly interlocking tiles as you go. Depending on the type you have, Some interlocking tiles simply overlap while others you'll need to insert at a 45-degree angle and press down to knit the joint, and another style of laminate interlocking tiles where you use a tapping block and hit it with a hammer to press the boards together,
Continue using two 1/4 inch plastic spacers for each tile to keep your laminate floor tiles off the wall, and trim the tiles as needed so that the outer ends continue to ride the chalk line. Continue adding tiles to your first row until you reach the end of the wall.
To mark the cut for your last tile of the row. Rotate the tile so that the mating end is against a spacer on the wall, then use the previous tile as a gauge to place a mark on your last tile and use a straight edge to draw your cut line. Your goal is that when you turn the laminate tile back around, your cut end will be against the wall.
A table saw or circular saw or power miter saw all work fine for making straight cuts to Laminate floor tiles, as long as the tiles aren't too big for its reach. Just follow the same rules as if you were cutting wood. And keep the blade on the scrap side of the cut line. To cut notches to your Laminate floor tiles use a jigsaw,
These cuts could be for around a post, a radiator leg, or a detailed corner molding, such as that of a kitchen island. For marking these intricate cuts, Hold your laminate tile against the object and trace around it. Use the pointed end of a compass and let the pencil on the other side trace the profile onto the tile.
To install your second row of Laminate floor ties, Go back to where you started your first row. This is the starting point for your second row.
Cut the first laminate tile of your second row in half. However, the
manufacturer may suggest a different size offset cut. If so follow what
the manufacturer requires.
Arrange it so the cut side will fall against the end wall. Use a 1/4 inch spacer against the end wall and interlock the joint with that of the first row
Continue laying your laminate floor tiles row by row while alternating the first tile of each row as a full or half tile. Or by whatever the stagger tile size the manufacturer recommended. Keep placing the 1/4 inch spacers wherever the Laminate floor tiles meet the wall.
When you come to your last row of laminate floor tiles, you'll need to cut the tiles to fit the remaining width of the floor, minus the 1/4 inch for the spacers you'll be placing along the walls.
So measure and mark your cuts and use a circular saw or table saw for cutting the tiles.
To tighten your last row of tiles, you won't be able to use a tapping block, So tap against a pull bar instead.
You have the choice of using either wood or metal thresholds. But you also have the choice of selecting matching Laminate thresholds.
Most laminate tile manufacturers carry matching thresholds that will work with almost any challenge you might face.
This might be for joining your laminate tile flooring to a floor of a different height or for covering uneven cuts.
These thresholds usually have a metal track that is screwed into the subfloor, and a tongue on the underside of the threshold that slips into the channel of the metal track.